Here it is, a video how-to. A detailed explanation follows and I will add images to jazz it up a bit soon.
As our screens are re-usable, we just need to get that old stencil off, so we can start afresh with a new design. Here’s how we do it: (Wear gloves)
1. Stripping
You need a stripper or screen wash that will remove your particular type of emulsion. Most strippers are cross-platform, but some emulsions need a specific product. I use what is referred to as Gel Strip, a blue paste that you apply to the emulsion. There are also powders that dissolve in water that do the same thing.
I use a normal nail brush to apply the stripper. I use this to spread the product around the screen evenly and the scrubbing action works the gel into the emulsion. I do not scrub very hard. Once I have applied the stripper to both sides of the screen, I can see that it is starting to work the emulsion back to a water soluble state. There is pink residue on my scrubbing brush already from the emulsion starting to come off.
At this point I use a bit of water on the brush to work it even more, scrubbing both sides of the screen gently. After a minute or so, the emulsion should be ready to come off with water. I use a spray hose or some use a high pressure hose. It should come away quite easily. Rinse thoroughly, make sure you spray out all of the emulsion particularly on the sides of the screen as any bits left behind could hinder the coating process later.
You may notice that the mesh is not clean at this point. If you can hold it up to the light and see through the mesh, even if it appears stained with ink form the previous use then you can skip the second step and go to degreasing. If the ink residue appears to be a physical obstruction (usually caused by a super-cover/opaque ink), this can effect your next exposure and you should go to step 2.
2. De-hazing
For this process I use a ghost image/haze remover. Gloves are a must and a mask or protective glasses are a good idea. Dried ink remaining in the mesh is referred to as haze. Haze remover is a caustic gel that separates the ink from the mesh and allows it to be washed away. I only use this step when I have to due to the harshness of the chemical.
Again using a nail brush, I apply the gel only to the stained areas - it is not necessary to spread it all around the screen. I scrub gently front and back of the mesh and then leave for about five minutes. The ink should wash away easily. Again, rinse thoroughly. Sometimes the darker inks may not wash out fully, however if you can see through it, it’s fine. Go to step 3.
3.Degreasing
This is the final step. Degreasing removes impurities from the mesh, such as chemical residue. If your screen is not clear of residue, the emulsion can repel from the mesh when you try to recoat.
Basically all it is is a detergent, so I dilute some dish liquid in a spray bottle and spray it onto the screen. Again with a nail brush I scrub it into the mesh, spreading it evenly on both sides until I get a bit of lather going. Rinse very thoroughly, especially around the frame, so that no drips transfer onto the mesh while drying.
That’s about it. You should dry it in your screen cupboard or somewhere it won’t be exposed to dust or dirt. Make sure it is fully dry before you re-coat.
